In the United States, burritos are considered, in general, a staple of Mexican cuisine.
However, according to my go-to authority in all things Mexican food and the author of Taco USA, Gustavo Arellano, the burrito’s origin can only be traced back to Baja California and Sonora, where flour tortillas are more popular than corn. The original burrito’s ingredients have evolved during its journey north of the border.
Pronto’s Mexican Grill’s California burrito. (photo: Sanam Lamborn)
For years, a simple printed sign on white paper with black font sat on display on the counter at Pronto’s Mexican Grill (2420 S. Western Ave.) advertising their “California Burrito.” It should have drawn me in immediately because one of the ingredients was french fries. Now, anyone who knows me knows that I have an absolute love, and weakness, for fries. But somehow, including fries in this burrito was a bit on the nose and too “Americanized” for me.
Since I had not seen it on other Mexican establishments’ menus, I assumed it was a Pronto’s special, and I never gave it much thought. Much to my surprise, while researching the origins of fish tacos for my column earlier this year, I discovered that California burritos are a San Diego creation dating back to the 1980s.
My newfound knowledge fueled my curiosity to try and explore who else in town has them on their menu. As it turns out, there are four places.
The sign at Pronto’s is long gone. I don’t know why the California burrito has never made it onto the menu boards above the counter; however, it’s listed on their website.
Their enormous California burrito is loaded with fries, beans, guacamole, sour cream, onion, cilantro, cheese, and your choice of carne asada, chicken, or carnitas. There are two deviations from the original: beans and protein of choice. The original California burrito is only made with carne asada. I chose asada to stay as close to the original as possible.
Brite Spot’s California burrito. (photo: Sanam Lamborn)
This is perhaps the part where you expect me to tell you that it rocked my world and I loved it. Sadly, that’s not what happened. In my opinion, the refried beans made the fries too mushy, and they got lost in the overall creaminess of the burrito. What stood out the most, though, were the perfectly marinated and cooked pieces of carne asada.
But, in the name of research, I returned to Pronto’s not long after and ordered the California burrito, this time without beans. Well folks, my world was rocked; imaginary fireworks were going off all around me, and a chorus was singing, “Hallelujah.” I think “hold the beans” is the right move because it allows the fries to shine.
The California burrito at Kalaveras. (photo: Sanam Lamborn)
My next stop was Brite Spot (615 S. Pacific Ave.). Their California burrito is equally large, stuffed with carne asada, fries, sour cream, pico de gallo, cheese, lettuce, and guacamole. Minus the addition of lettuce, it sticks to the original version.
This beast of a burrito was delicious, and I could not stop eating it. The fries were perfectly hot and crispy. The sour cream and guacamole added a pleasant creaminess that complimented the texture of the fries and carne asada.
The Kala burrito at Kalaveras (383 W. 5th St.) is made with marinated steak, shoestring fries, guacamole, Monterey Jack cheese, and pico de gallo. It may be called Kala, but as far as I am concerned, the fries make it a California burrito.
This is a good burrito; it’s heavier in guacamole than the rest. Nevertheless, my top choices for California burritos are Pronto’s and Brite Spot. spt
