Every small business has its own unique story; how SP Tacos came to be is one of my favorites.
It’s a tale of hardworking parents who raised their children in the restaurant business, laying the path for them to become entrepreneurs themselves. It’s also a story of discovering the ideal business partner in your spouse.
In 2004, Jesus and Marilu Licon opened Pronto’s Fresh Mexican Grill (2420 S. Western Av). Its good location and tasty food helped it become a favorite stop for Mexican cuisine in town. The owners’ daughters grew up working in the family business, learning all aspects of running a restaurant and eventually taking over upon their parents’ retirement.
Licon’s guidance helped his daughter, Nattaly Licon-Cruz, open SP Tacos (114 N. Gaffey St.) in 2015. The transition was initially challenging for Licon-Cruz because her new restaurant operated at a faster pace and served clientele who preferred takeout. Additionally, she was pregnant with her first child with her partner, Abraham Cruz.
As life would have it, Cruz found himself entering a transitional period not too long after. The lifelong San Pedro resident decided to sell the business he owned in town to go back to school and enter the booming technology field. However, upon graduation, the market had become too competitive and increasingly difficult to break into.
In another twist of fate, Licon-Cruz had to take some time off, at which point Cruz stepped in to help both restaurants despite his lack of experience. It became evident that he was a natural at the business side of running a restaurant. His organizational skills helped streamline paperwork, he suggested effective marketing ideas, and, most importantly, he added both restaurants to third-party delivery apps, which helped them weather the pandemic in the early years.
Cruz officially joined the Licon family business because he had proved himself to be a fast learner and a great asset. This transition has been ideal for Licon-Cruz because it has allowed her to focus on what she is most passionate about: menu development for both restaurants and her versatile cooking skills for their SP Catering business, while Cruz helps with the business side. “I can’t do the kitchen [stuff] to save my life. I wouldn’t be able to create a plate. She is good at that. But the parts that she can’t do, I can,” Cruz tells me, highlighting his digital and advertising savviness contributions.
When visiting SP Tacos, having their namesake “tacos” are a must.
Licon-Cruz tells me, “The signature dishes are fish tacos and potato tacos.” Both are deep-fried to perfection and generously sized. The crispy tacos are first stuffed with meat, then deep-fried and topped with shredded lettuce, diced tomatoes, and cheese. You are hooked at the first crunchy bite.
The street tacos, in their simplicity, allow the meat of choice to shine. They offer the standard taco meat choices; however, they also have cabeza (beef head), buche (pork maw), and suadero (cow belly), which I don’t often see on menus in town. The taquitos, with their flavorful chicken, are perfectly crunchy, elevated by the freshness of shredded lettuce, diced tomatoes, crema, and cheese, with guacamole served on the side.
A must-try is the Home Town Burrito. Licon-Cruz says, “It pays tribute to my dad’s hometown, Meoqui, Chihuahua, where they sell burritos that are long and skinny, but here we make them nice and big. The ingredients are similar (meat, beans, lettuce, pico de gallo, sour cream, and Meoqui salsa).” The bright green Meoqui salsa is delightfully spicy and a must-have when ordering any of their food.
SP Tacos might be small, located in a strip mall that many drive past on their way out of town; however, it’s definitely worth stopping by for good food and impressively fast, friendly service. spt
Sanam Lamborn created the Eat in San Pedro Facebook group and Instagram account in April 2020 to entice people to patronize San Pedro’s eateries.
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