It is a bit of wonder to me that, given San Pedro’s fishing history and being a seaside town, our choices for seafood fine dining were limited to one until recently.

For this month’s column, I visited the two restaurants with extensive seafood menus that are perfect for when you want to step it up a little and enjoy a night of fine dining.

The fisherman’s platter at 22nd St. Landing Seafood Grill & Bar. (photo: Sanam Lamborn)

22nd St. Landing Seafood Grill & Bar (141 W. 22nd St.) is the only independently operating restaurant in San Pedro with a gorgeous view of Cabrillo Marina. During a day visit, the sun rays sparkle like little diamonds on the water, and it feels glorious to either sit at a window-side table or on the small balcony.

A sunset visit allows for an equally beautiful experience, as the marina is engulfed in the warm golden hour colors. The lunch and dinner menus feature a variety of standard options expected at a seafood restaurant. While I appreciate the staple plates of fish served with sides, the dishes that stand out to me on their menu are the ones that can’t be found at other restaurants in town.

The potato-crusted salmon is served with the restaurant’s signature sides: short-grain rice pilaf, sautéed squash, and carrots. The shredded potatoes that serve as the crust for the salmon come to the table still a bit crunchy, which adds a pleasant texture to the salmon. The fish is finished with a generous amount of dill beurre blanc (French butter sauce), which is light yet flavorful.

Another noteworthy menu item is the bouillabaisse, a seafood soup originally from the French Riviera. I am usually not drawn to seafood soups, but this one is definitely a hit. Clams, shrimp, scallops, pieces of fish, muscles, diced tomatoes, bell peppers, and onion are served in a light tomato broth infused with an adequate amount of saffron that can be tasted.

Lastly, the fisherman’s platter is ideal for any seafood lover. Skewers of swordfish, scallops, wild shrimp, and red peppers are grilled to perfection. I was particularly impressed at how neither the scallops nor shrimp were overcooked for these dishes. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner Tuesday to Sunday, as well as for Sunday brunch.

The Peruvian bay scallops at Trani’s Dockside Station. (photo: Sanam Lamborn)

Just down the street, the much-anticipated Trani’s Dockside Station (311 E. 22nd St.) finally opened its doors over the summer. The dining room and bar area are beautifully designed with mementos from our town’s years past. In addition, black and white pictures of San Pedro’s fishing history adorn some of the interior walls. Perhaps the star of the show is the open kitchen that gives patrons a peek into the food preparation and the raw bar with oysters and scallops on display.

During a recent visit, my husband and I tried several different small plates. Our server asked us to decide on our complete order before jotting down our choices. Although it seemed unusual, we soon realized that this was a way for the kitchen to pace our order and decide the best sequence in which the dishes should be enjoyed.

The menu offers surf and turf options in small or large plates, although rightfully, seafood dominates the menu. Chef Dustin Trani tells me that the menu changes daily. While to some, this may not be appealing, to me, it makes each visit unique because it provides an opportunity to explore the kitchen’s creativity.

Despite the evolving menu, some items seem to be regulars that, upon trying thus far, I can suggest. The grilled Peruvian bay scallops, served in their shell, are delicious. The battered and fried squash blossoms float on top of fluffy housemade ricotta. A unique item on the menu that is a must-try is the local mushrooms, grown here in San Pedro, served with a tasty Sicilian almond pesto and lemon crème. The beloved — and unmatched — New Style calamari is also on the menu. The restaurant is open for lunch from Wednesday to Friday and dinner from Wednesday to Monday. spt